Vibrant, matt red lips set against porcelain skin paired with tousled, yet sophisticated updos redefined the classic combination of red lips and polished chignons at the Academy of Art and Zac Posen shows. The more urban take on modern elegance complimented the visionary designers’ evolved notions of the classic suit, dress and coat. The strong, simple emphasis on pointed red lips was an appropriately sophisticated pairing for the sumptuous, icy wool coats and dresses by Academy of Art designers Emily Melville and Ivanka Georgieva.

The Look at Academy of Art

Meanwhile Zac Posen upped the glamour quotient for his more ostentatious collection using a tangerine tinted shade on lips, smokier eyes and prominent false lashes. In both cases, attention was paid to define bone structure and fill in brows to complete the look.

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NARS Lipliner Pencil

While nude lip liner is most often suggested it can mutate bright colors when applied together. To preserve the original shade of lipstick use a coordinating lip liner (Try NARS Lipliner Pencil). For a pointed lip line trace along the natural arches of the cupids bow, outline lips and fill. Due to the precise nature of the application into the small spaces on the top lip and the bright color a lip brush is absolutely necessary.

Chose a matt lipstick or create a matt effect from a cream lipstick by blotting lightly with a tissue and a applying a (very) light layer of translucent powder. If the color appears chalky apply another light coat of lipstick.

Pocketful of Sunshine

It’s not often that we associate a red lip with youthful exuberance but at Leifsdottir and DKNY the effect was just that. Scorching red lips appeared plucky and playful with a marked, matching tangelo shade washed on cheeks, befitting of the fanciful, vintage inspired collection. While the whimsical hats, headdresses and chokers contributed, the placement of the noticeable blush all along the cheek gave the look it’s retro feel. At DKNY a heavy “cats eye” line was balanced with a subtle red stain on lips.

 

The Look at Leifsdottir

While less noticeable, the subtle lip stain in red made skin appear comparably luminous, accentuated with a natural flush on cheeks, for the kind of girl who wears DKNY’s classic pieces. Whether choosing a heavy or translucent application, coordinating shades of red on cheeks and lips adds a layer of color that can be daringly or subtly youthful.

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TARTE Cheek Stain

Hard to find, more highly pigmented blushes like MAC’S Powder Blush should be applied sparingly in layers towards a desired level of brightness. Avoid an “over-glow” by layering blush as a final step giving consideration to lipstick and other face makeup. TARTE’s Cheek Stain is a formula that allows for a subtle glow to last throughout the day.

For a natural red flush opt for shades like Flush, Tickled or Blushing Bride. Stains can be applied with a brush, fingers or directly from the applicator but take care to blend heartily. A layer of pressed or loose powder can tone down the drama of an overly enthusiastic application.

Bad Girls Club

Mothers everywhere have been know to warn daughters that only bad girls wear dark lipstick. At Mackage and Cynthia Steffe models in dark red lipstick weren’t just bad they were tough, touched with an impossibly chic rebelliousness befitting of the many leather creations by both designers. Mysteriously covered in netting, which might work for half the face (till below the eyes) or as a headband in practice, berried lips and prominently lined eyes shone through with a striking, urban femininity.

Mackage

Deep berry colored lips were coordinated with shadows in neutral shades of brown, plum and grey to contour the eye and soften the heavy lining on top lids at Mackage and the lower lash line at Cynthia Steffe. Emphasis paid to heighten the brow arch played into the air of mystique. The modern shapes of Cynthia Steffe’s futuristic dresses and Mackage’s heavy, constructed coats called for a bold but beautiful look.

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DIOR Dior Chic Palette

A palette of shadows with choices of contrasting dark shades for lining, intermediate soft colors for shading and pearlescent cream tones for highlighting above the brow bone can be combined to create a comprehensive eye look. Try DIOR Dior Chic Palette with shimmering bronze, ivory sheen, brownish green sheen, light mauve gray sheen, plum sheen, shimmering grayish black to mix and match to create contoured eyes.

From this diversity of designers it’s clear that whether the look you chose is modern or vintage, simple or ornate, masculine or feminine, flamboyant or demure, a red lip can be the signature accessory you wear on your face to say what you want but will always make sure you are heard. So pout out loud!

About the Author: With a degree in Psychology from Brown University, Miko Laube creates intuitive fashion articles drawn from her experiences as a stylist, makeup artist and dancer in San Francisco. She credits her upbringing in cosmopolitan Hong Kong and her mother, Yuka, for her fashion sensibility. You can submit a question to Miko through the "Ask The Expert" section or contact her directly at  miko@herstoknow.com.